Friday, 20 July 2012

A real American road trip

Hello from Nebraska (new state, check). It's 10pm and we're driving through the night to Colorado and with many around me sleeping it seems like a good time to write a post.

Chicago second time around was well worth it, though it's interesting to compare the style of the two tours. The bus was parked a good half hour walk from the main areas of interest and we were sent on our way with a very basic map and some info and told to be back at 10:30 that night. I was very glad I had my bearings and a better map already and was able to help some of the others too. We had some breakfast and headed into town after purchasing tickets to an architecture cruise for later in the day. It was well into the 30s and so air con was very welcome at the visitors centre. It's amazing how important Wi Fi access and places to charge my phone (both also at the visitors centre) have become since we are not in hostels at night. I tried to do a walking tour of the millennium park but the volunteer guide didn't turn up, apparently sometimes they don't if it's too hot, and I can't say I blame them. Instead I went for a wander on my own and met up with the others later for the cruise, which was well worth it. Did you know the Chicago River is the only one to have it's flow reversed by human intervention? They did it because it was too polluted and in danger of damaging their drinking water source, of course the cities and states down stream were less than impressed! I visited one of the city beaches and then went up the John Hancock tower for the view before heading back to the bus.

Speaking of the beach, one thing that seems very odd to me is how almost all the swimming places we have been have lifeguards and you are not allowed to swim if they are not on duty. Even tiny little pools or areas of a lake surrounded by buoys, but I suppose it's safer than not. One place we went the lifeguards cleared the pool every hour or two while they went on a break, even when there were two of them!

After Chicago we had two more night drives. I'm losing track of which day is which, but I think next we had a "relax" day in a State park with an artificial lake type pool (felt like a bit of a wasted day to me, but I understand some people like to include that in a holiday. Me, I'm here to travel and see and do stuff!). There was also a visit to a real American laundromat which was fun.

The next day we got to see and do stuff! We had an early wake up when we arrived in the Badlands of South Dakota (new state, check) in time for the sunrise. It was pretty spectacular and well worth it. The rock formations are crazy and the colours pretty beautiful. It's very desolate though and so very hot. We had a very quick breakfast and made lunch then at 7:30 headed out on a two hour walk through the area with the bus meeting us at the other end. We realised pretty quick the drivers were right having is do the walk so early. Boy was it hot! Amazing scenery too.

From there it was a wee drive to Wall, home of Wall Drug and very touristy, but they also had a wee local swimming pool we could use that didn't even charge. Dinner was in the middle of nowhere, Indian tacos cooked up by Tammy and her children and served out their kitchen window. The story goes that more than 10 years ago a Green Tortoise bus had broken down outside a diner and the lady running the place had rescued them, and every bus trip in the vicinity has been back ever since. That lady is now in a rest home, and Tammy has taken over the role. It really was quite the place, I spotted a very rusted tow bar so obviously at one point it was a trailer home, but had long since been made permanent and added on to with rooms and a deck. They were very hospitable and we even managed to talk a bit with the kids. We then spent the night in a field. With no facilities. At all! Very interesting :-). It was fun sleeping under the stars (even some with tents didn't bother putting them up) but we did liberally apply the insect repellant first.

Now I'm up to today, and we've been to Mount Rushmore. Of course I've seen pictures and things but it's much more interesting than I expected. It took them 14 years all up to carve starting in 1927, mostly with dynamite and then jackhammers and chisels and there is quite a bit of info and footage of that whole process. I was also interested to learn more about Teddy Roosevelt who is the forth face (the others are Washington, Jefferson and Lincoln with whom I am already pretty familiar) and what he achieved as President. The theme of a lot of the info was how the nation was built up from the original 13 colonies into the final 50 states and I found that quite fascinating. We were supposed to do our own thing for lunch there but I was too busy seeing and doing stuff :-). We stopped at anther park with a lake, for once there was no lifeguard, but unfortunately it wasn't that nice a lake with lots of weed so we were pretty restrained. We had an early dinner as tonight's drive is the longest of the trip and the drivers don't want to be hurried. We did however just have a brief almost photo-op stop at "Carhenge" which is basically art made out of old trashed cars. It's very cool, but as I'm now mostly using Mum's camera to take photos I can't attach one to this blog. I also have yet to figure out how to view photos I have taken, so Dad if you could text me some basic instructions I'd be most grateful, thanks!

I have taken a few with the phone though, attached is one shot of the Badlands and also one from the back of the bus in "daytime" mode. You can see the sleeping racks up top, and the back platform which is always that way. In the evenings of the driving nights we do the "miracle" which converts the front to a similar platform and creates enough sleeping space for us all. We have it down to a fine art now.

I'm managing to keep up with the news on Stuff and also managed to talk to Dad the other day. Mum had 1470 photos when she got home, there is no way I'll manage anything close to that!

Love

Sarah

Monday, 16 July 2012

Tour number two

Well this tour is a little different!

I'm amused that I am again writing a blog on the way into Chicago. This time it is morning and we have slept overnight since leaving Niagara Falls a bit after 10pm. We have passed through two states in the night and are in Illinois now. Unfortunately they are not new states to me so didn't add to the talley.

So far we've had one night at a campground and two nights on the road. The bus has 8 bunk beds near the roof and the rest of the area converts to 4 very cozy "honeymoon" beds and two large communal sleeping areas. It is working pretty well so far, a deal of cooperation is required and we are getting to know each other quite well :-). On the camping nights most people have tents to only about 10 of us slept on the bust so had a bit more room.

There are 28 on the bus, mostly mid 20s to mid 30s, but there is one 40ish German lady (Claudia) and an Aussie couple in their 60s on their honeymoon!! There is also a young couple from Whangarei so it's nice to have some backup when I'm trying to explain to people I don't have an accent! It is good to have options to hang out with different people. I have to say that with this many people all the practical stuff takes a while and does suck up some of the time we save by driving while sleeping. There are two driver/guides, Dave and Adrian, and they seem pretty cool with lots of experience. There is an enclosed sleeping compartment for them (one at a time!) at the back which seems pretty well equipped with light and fan and we are under instructions to keep the noise down in the back as we want our drivers well rested.

On the first full day we spent some time at a State Park in Pennsylvania on lake Eire. We had the chance to swim or canoe/kayak and Claudia and I shared a canoe and saw lots of birds and insects and just a couple of turtles. It was a fun way to spend some time.

Visiting Niagara Falls again was good. Unfortunately the guides were very off-putting about visiting Canada so I think the few that I was with were the only ones who bothered. They all seemed pleased they had done that so I was glad to have helped. We also did a "Cave of Winds" walk I hadn't done last time. Quite different from the Maid of the Mist boat ride, but it did take you right to the base of the smallest of the three falls and we got very very wet so that was good as it was another scorcher of a day (photo attached). Also got to see the birds up close, there is quite a variety and lots of young ones at this time of year looking very fluffy.

I expect to be able to send this from Chicago, after that were heading into west, the Badlands (sounds so cool!)

I have heard from Dad that Mum made it safely home after a nice time in California, so I was pleased about that.

Love
Sarah

Friday, 13 July 2012

Quebec together, New York on my own

Quebec really is very French! I guess I didn't quite appreciate that going in and there were lots of little challenges to deal with. I did enjoy breaking out my schoolgirl French again though.

After landing in Montreal at 6pm on Sunday we were straight into a rental car and off to a B&B outside Quebec City. I must say between driving an unfamiliar car (a Rav 4 no less), on the wrong side of the road, on unfamiliar roads and compulsory stop signs in the middle of a perfectly normal road that don't actually say "stop" but "arret", it was a slightly stressful drive. Still we made it by 11 to a lovely house in the middle of the country run by Chantel who made us very welcome and put on a fantastic breakfast spread. I'm sure glad I changed our plans to stay there two nights.

Quebec City is very pretty and very French. There are three distinct periods of their history, French, English and Canadian and so for example the Catholic Churches are from the French Period and the Anglican are from the English (and still has a predominantly English speaking congregation). There is also a fantastic Citadel built by the English to defend against the French and also the Americans but never used in battle. It is now the base for the only French speaking regiment of the Canadian Army and we did a very interesting tour.

I also did a tour of the State Parliament House while Mum took in some shops and some street performers of which there were many and then we had Poutine for dinner which is a potato cheese thing and very nice before heading home in reasonable time (we were staying across the St Lawrence River so had caught a ferry each way, a great way to get to the city!)

Tuesday was our travel day (more compulsory stops!) and the reason we had the car. St Anne's Basilica is north of Quebec along the river and as well as an incredibly ornate church, on the same site is a Cyclorama. This is a huge circular painting of the crucifixion of Jesus and the city of Jerusalem. It was created in Munich and shipped to Quebec about 130 years ago, I can't imagine what a process that was!! It is very beautiful and detailed and Mum bought a wee book so anyone I interested can check it out. Another 10 minutes north was the highlight of my day, St Anne's Canyon. It's a really high waterfall in a canyon and is just beautiful. I'll include some photos but they can't possibly do it justice. We were pressed for time but I did manage to get all the way around including the 189 steps down to the bottom, and then back. Then it was a straight run back to Montreal to find our hotel to drop bags and then the rental in that order.

In Montreal we decided we had had enough of old towns and churches and so instead spent the day at the Olympic Park area. In the 1976 Olympic velodrome they have created a Biodome with four different areas, tropical, temperate, St Lawrence River and artic/antarctic. It is very well done with plants and animals, monkeys, birds, turtles, beavers and many more. We went around the first two a second time as those animals were more elusive, fish and birds tends to be more visible. Probably the best part for me were the diving seabirds. They stayed down for ages and really did look like they were flying underwater.

Then it was on to the botanical gardens for the afternoon. We took a guided tour and the guy was very informative as well as entertaining. They have an amazing rose garden, Chinese and Japanese gardens, a huge collection of vegetables from al over the world, and insectarium with heaps of spiders (and other insects of course) and a whole series of greenhouses with orchids and tropical plans and ferns and rainforest plants. It was a really great way to spend another fine hot day.

We were delayed on our evening flight back to New York and so got to our hotel around 11:30 with Mum catching a 4:30am shuttle the next morning, so not too much sleep Wed night. She is in LA for Thu and Fri before arriving back in NZ on Sunday morning. We talked to Dad and he is certainly looking forward to having her home!

So now I'm on my own. Yesterday and today I've spent cycling around the city, and getting some practical stuff done as well (finally got my watch strap fixed that broke on about day 2, and replaced a couple of items either lost or worn out along the way). It's been great to have a bike and be able to go wherever I want and not be too tired from it. I've seen heaps of the city as well as a good chunk of the greenway that circles Manhattan island. There is a footbridge to Randell's Island so I went there and around some of that island too. It feels like there is heaps of public space here, but I suppose for the population they need it.

I'm off in a few minutes to catch my second tour. I do expect to have less net access so the posts might be less frequent. I do hope everyone in NZ is well, and do feel free to keep testing through the website as I have hung on to Mum's phone.

Love
Sarah

Tuesday, 10 July 2012

Seafood and ballgames in Boston

I know, it's been a while since I posted, we've been busy :-)

Boston was great. The first evening we spent in the suburb of Cambridge checking out the Harvard campus (and feeling either less or more learned, we never did figure out which) and then after dinner some drinks in a low key local bar with Reto. Very mellow. Mum stayed in town and managed to take enough photos to get "squirreled out" (though it didn't last long, I caught her taking some more photos just a couple of days later) and get a slightly early night.

On Friday we walked our feet off following most of the Freedom Trail which covers most of the old stuff in Boston. Gosh they have a lot of history. It really is the birthplace of the Revolutionary movement. I did something I never do and purchased a "stupid little book" of the Freedom Trail so I can learn more about what I saw. Then It can be added to my father's extensive collection :-). We also did a "Super-Duck" tour in a bus that turns into a boat that was a lot of fun and very informative. I did have to keep poking Mum to keep her awake during the land part, she was fine for the water bit. I think I have worn her out!!

Our evening consisted of dinner at a flash seafood restaurant (when in Boston...) for our final meal together, then Mum, Reto and I went for a drink and dessert on the 52nd floor and a great view of the city. We could see Fenway Park where the Red Sox were playing the Yankees (at baseball) and where Matt had gone to watch the game. Reto and I left Mum to find her way home (which she did) and headed out toward Fenway to find a bar to watch the game and boy did we! It is called the Bleacher Bar and is located literally under the seats with a viewing window that looks into the park at ground level. The place was packed with fans and we had a fantastic time. I've included a pic (not allowed during the game, only after) which hopefully gives you a wee feel for it.

Next day we bid a (slightly) tearful farewell to the tour group who were heading back to New York, then I spent the morning at the Bunker Hill Monument (294 steps, I'm just saying) and museum while Mum had some (shopping) down time. We met with some relatives of relatives for lunch (more yummy seafood) and a bit of a local tour (thanks John and Anne) and then went to the house of some friends (thanks Matt, Rachael, Kate and Adam) with whom we stayed the night after going to Rhode Island (another state, check) for a minor league baseball game. It was great I knew most of the rules after the previous night and there were fireworks after, just for me.

Next day was Sunday so church and then some time at the beach (on a lake, but it was definitely sand) with the family before heading to the airport to go to Canada. Phew, it was a packed couple of days but it was lovely to be in a normal house for a night!

We are in Montreal now after two nights in Quebec City. I'll save that for the next post, tired now.

Love Sarah and Laurice

Thursday, 5 July 2012

Independence Day in the US of A

We've had a very cool couple of days, and I don't mean the temperature. After a brief foray into Michigan (new state, yay!) for the night and pancakes for breakfast we were off on the six hour drive to Niagara Falls. Rest areas in this stretch were a bit scarce and it was the first really rainy day we've had (it really did bucket down for a while), but we managed to find a place for lunch and a break in the weather at the same time. This place was particularly well laid out as all the facilities were on an island in between the two interstate lanes with parking and an enclosed walking bridge from either side. Quite efficient.

Niagara Falls are just spectacular. The very significant bridges crossing the vast rivers that feed the falls give you some clue, and the cloud of spray you can see for miles is another. However the best way to fully appreciate it is from the Maid of the Mist boat tour. Everyone gets a glorified garbage bag raincoat in a very becoming royal blue (ask me sometime to see the close up I took of Mum, it would be too mean to put it here) but that doesn't do much to keep you dry against the force of the water. It was hard to keep your eyes open and I couldn't stop laughing! There was really no way to take photos so we just had to enjoy ourselves. Reto and I took some stairs that looked like they went back to the top, but they only went halfway so after getting even more drenched we had to go down and back up the lift afterall. We have no idea how they managed to build those stairs in the first place. You can walk around Luna and Angel Islands to get some good views from the top so we left Mum behind to take in the viewing platform and gift shop and powerwalked over to do that and got wet some more which was fun.

Then we had dinner in Canada (new country, yay). As you do :-). Well actually not Lee and Yen as they didn't have Visas that would let them go back into the US.

That side of the Falls is much more built up but very garish. It also has better views of the falls which are very pretty all lit up at night. The place was heaving with people and Matt said it was a slow night! As a bonus there were very pretty fireworks on the US side as we were walking back, and no dramas at the boarder!

Next day the weather was glorious again, and Matt had arranged a small town parade just for me :-). Apparently my brother Steve had something to do with it too!! We spent about an hour in Grand Island, New York enjoying some of their July 4th activities. Most people were dressed to impress, and we took a great photo with me and Terry (who was the most impressive I saw) when I went over and asked him if he'd mind. His whole family had coloured hair and great outfits and we talked for a few minutes and then another man named Tony came over to say hello. He'd been to NZ a couple of times and recognised the accent, so that was a lot of fun. I told Matt he (along with Terry and Tony) had made my day and it wasn't even 11!

By days end we were in the Finger Lakes region, had visited a local vineyard, been for a swim in the lake and had pork chops and corn on the cob on the grill for dinner. Then I got a pie with candles and a card from the group and we watched more fireworks, and fireflies into the evening. I also talked to nearest and dearest from home, so had a really really good day.

I've taught Reto two handed 500 (which he is definitely getting the hang of) and have continued my camping tradition of dishing out my patented back-rubs which seem to be appreciated, particularly by Matt who is clocking up some pretty impressive driving miles. Speaking of driving, one thing that has surprised me has been the frequency of tolls on the Interstate. I'm so glad we paid an all inclusive price for this trip, otherwise it would probably be driving me nuts. Parking charges also seem pretty steep to me.

Mum's eye is still giving her trouble but as of today (Thu) I'm sure I can see an improvement and she seems to be feeling better as the photo count is picking up again!!

Thanks again for all the birthday wishes, this one is right up there in the best birthdays ever hall of fame

Love
Sarah & Laurice

Wednesday, 4 July 2012

I've had such a good day

Hello lovely Friends and Family

I'll post properly tomorrow but at 12:05 on July 5th I felt the need to say this birthday has been fan-tas-tic!!! Americans know how to celebrate, even in the middle of a heat-wave.

Tired now.

Thanks for all the texts, emails and phone calls, about the only downer today is I'm again struggling to reply to emails so please know I so appreciate them and will reply when I can.

'night
(a tired and happy)
Sarah

Monday, 2 July 2012

The city and the country

Chicago exceeded expectations.

I feel I'm likely to run out of superlatives but I'll try not to be too verbose :-). After settling in at a well set up hostel with a very helpful info desk we headed out for deep dish pizza (delicious) and the evening bike tour (awesome). I did not envy the one guide trying to wrangle 25 or so riders of significantly varying degrees of ability including one who had never ridden before. I tried to be helpful particularly on the road bits but didn't want to be too obnoxious. Still it was a great way to see the city and a heap of fun. We covered about 9 miles (15 kms) all up. Matt took off after that and we didn't see him until this morning (Mon) as he had a well deserved off day. Reto, Sandra, Lee and I wandered home along Michigan Ave checking out the Sat night life. Meanwhile Mum went up the Sears Tower (tallest building in Chicago) before finding her way home (with instructions to catch a cab if she got lost).

Sunday we were up and out to the First Methodist Church. We didn't expect to also have the opportunity to tour the Sky Chapel which is the tallest church steeple in the world, so that was a bonus. Of course they did cheat a little and build it on top of the 20 story building containing the church :-). The pictures below are carvings on alters, Jesus overlooking Jerusalem in the main church, and it's twin in the Sky Chapel, Jesus overlooking Chicago (possibly in the wrong order, I can't figure out how to change them around, sorry)

We took our time there and also heading along the lake (cue more photos of birds and boats) to the world famous Shedd Aquarium. We got caught in a pretty impressive storm on the way and queued over an hour to get in but it was worth it. Far too much to detail here, ask Mum or me about it when we're back.

We had dinner with Reto and Sandra (sadly her last night with us as she had Visa issues and has to fly home today) and then Mum went home via the Buckingham Fountain which we had seen on the bike tour. I think I read it's the biggest in the world (I'll have to check Matt's Lonely Planet) but I do recall it circulates 14,000 gallons per second. My wee converter app tells me that's approx. 53,000 litres. That sounds like a lot. But actually what is cool is that every hour there is a display with classical music, pretty lights and of course changing water patterns. So Mum got to enjoy that while we gave Sandra a wee send-off.

Chicago is beautifully laid out with heaps of open spaces along the lake side. The most popular beach has 20,000 people on summer weekend days. However we also saw a lot of homeless, and at the church there was a memorial to the 300+ children murdered in the last few years, particularly it seems accidentally during drive-bys. So not all museums and tall buildings.

However it is a beautiful city and I'm glad I have another day there during my next tour. That was the city.

Today we've visited the country. Amish country that is.

We were a bit late leaving Chicago, which worked out for us as Mum is having an eye issue and we had time to buy some eye drops for her. It seems to be better this afternoon but is still not yet right. We also lost an hour due to a timezone change, strange when we're driving, not flying. That's OK, this is the last one now until I'm on the next tour after Mum leaves. Anyway, that meant if was 11:30 by the time we got to the Indiana Dunes National Park on the shore of Lake Michigan. Wow!! It was like a beach only with no waves and fresh water and just the barest hint of land on the horizon. Mum stayed in the van to rest (which helped the eye) so Reto and I went for a lovely swim (30 mins wasn't long enough) and also took some photos. I reckon the water was maybe 25 and it was lovely and clear with a sandy bottom. We went a fair way out and it only just got over our heads.

Then it was on to Shipshewana, Indiana. Where the cars compete with horse drawn buggies and old style bicycles. It is a tourist town, but also clearly a working area with furniture making, dairy farming and apparently RV factories. Who knew?! We had 90 mins there and after a lunch of the best pretzel Mum and I have had, she, Reto and I did a half hour buggy ride with Harvey and George the horse. Harvey was at least 60, with the classic beard but no mustache and a bit taciturn but we managed to get him talking with a few questions. It was a great way to see the town and a wee bit of the countryside, at 6 miles per hour.

I think these posts are getting longer now I've worked out I can write them offline while we're driving. Feel free to txt, email or comment on the blog, it's nice to get news from home. I had a nice chat to brother Dave on Viber last night which was fun since I'm going to a lot of places he's been.

I see on Stuff there has been news of the heatwave here, we're certainly in it and I do appreciate the air con and the chance to swim when we can. I'm basically living in a skirt and tank top and Mum has bought a couple extra light things too. I hope NZ winter isn't too harsh!!

Love Sarah and Laurice.